1. I’m a couple of weeks into 3D printing with a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. My initial impressions are: tl;dr: mechanically good, firmware bad. Either install synman’s pro firmware (requires a screen downgrade) or klipper (drops the screen and requires a raspberry pi — I went with MainsailOS) and you’ll have a very good printer for the price.

    Here’s my best 3D Benchy so far, printed in 55 minutes in PETG using Klipper

    Pros:

    • Mechanically solid and well built, comes very well packed, does not feel like the stereotypical “cheap chinese” product at all
    • Quick and easy to assemble (I recommend using loctite on all screws to prevent them coming loose from vibrations)
    • Some replacement parts available
    • Well supported with (mostly quite good) profiles available for various pieces of software
    • Touchscreen interface is fast and convenient to use if you’re satisfied with the stock firmware
    • Main board is not locked-down so it’s easy to install different firmware, and just as easy to revert to stock in the unlikely event that you want to

    Cons:

    • The stock firmware is very limited and has various problems.
      • Most notably, the “print on resume” feature causes uncontrollable pauses between layers, during which the nozzle will leak filament, causing huge blobs and stringing. Not possible to turn off in the UI, requires a M413 S0 command added to the start g-code in your slicer (or changing to a different firmware, which you should do anyway). Here’s a comparison of the exact same part with and without “resume on power loss” enabled, both printed back when I was using the stock firmware:
      • The auto bed leveling feels extremely unreliable and hard to trust
      • You can only see the first few characters of gcode files, so it’s impossible to differentiate between two similar files with different suffixes
    • Fiddly to perform firmware updates — screen and main board require separate files, sometimes in different folders depending on the chipset you have (which you can only check by opening the printer and looking at the hard-to-read MCU part number), always with a new filename otherwise it’ll fail silently, both will accept firmwares for different models with weird failure modes like a rotated screen
    • v-wheels riding in aluminium extrusions have a limited accuracy. Definitely good enough for a lot of purposes, but can warp and wear over time, will never be as good as precision-ground linear rods or (even better,) rails
    • XZ gantry arrived with loose Z nuts, causing huge amounts of Z kickback and preventing any kind of accurate movement. No indication that you have to tighten these in the instructions, and sources on the web inconsistent about what you should do about it. I ended up tightening mine up so they don’t rattle and have had no further issues.
    • Flex cable XZ clip position sticker was placed slightly wrong and awkward to adjust once in, and the flex cable end at the extruder requires better stress relief IMO. I added ~6cm of heatshrink tubing around it which works great
    • The provided slicer is horrible, I only tried it out to see if it’d fix my z blobbing problems. Fortunately Prusa Slicer works great with these printers

    I tuned mine up with the usual tools until I was satisfied with the prints using the stock firmware. Then I installed klipper and set up pressure advance and input shaping, vastly improving performance and usability.

    20mm calibration cubes printed 1) on the stock firmware, 2) Klipper with a speed profile, and 3) Klipper with a detail profile (i.e. slower outer perimeters):

    Here’s my current Prusa Slicer config files for the printer itself (Klipper) and my 0.16mm layer height optimal speed print profile.

    Here’s what my Klipper START_PRINT and END_PRINT macros ended up looking like:

    [gcode_macro START_PRINT]
    gcode:
      {% set TOTAL_LAYER_COUNT = params.TOTAL_LAYER_COUNT|int %}
      {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|float %}
      {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|float %}
    
    SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER={TOTAL_LAYER_COUNT}
      G90 ; use absolute coordinates
      M83 ; extruder relative mode
      M140 S{BED_TEMP} ; set final bed temp
      M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP - 90} ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling
      G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
      G28 ; home all axis
      M190 S{BED_TEMP} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize so that the bed mesh is accurate
      BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
      M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; set final nozzle temp
      G1 Z50 F240
      G1 X2 Y10 F3000
      M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
      G1 Z0.28 F240
      G92 E0
      G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
      G1 X2.3 F5000
      G92 E0
      G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
      G92 E0
    
    [gcode_macro END_PRINT]
    gcode:
      M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
      M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
      M107 ; turn off fan
      # Move nozzle away from print while retracting
      G91
      G1 X-2 Y-2 E-3 F300
      # Raise nozzle by 10mm
      G1 Z10 F3000
      # Move out of the way
      G90
      G0 X20 Y150
      # Disable steppers
      M84 X Y E
    
  2. Completed thomaswasalone.com. It’s a really beautiful game — perfect narrative, perfect gameplay, wonderful voice acting, excellent music.

    Most multi-character co-op games simply treat the different characters as providing different abilities, but Thomas Was Alone creates meaningful, believable relationships between them, despite them being non-marked, non-emoting rectangles. I enjoyed it even more than Home Sheep Home (the iOS Shaun the Sheep game), which is saying something (I was in the Game Centre top 5% for HSH2 for quite some time).

    Another plus: it can be scaled up to retina-display resolution, making those rectangles extremely crisp despite the subtle tilt placed on every level.

  3. Brave has some of the best Pixar film music since Ratatouille, and an excellent depiction of a lute — placing it alongside Ghibli’s Whisper Of The Heart for interesting (non-tropic) music.

  4. Just finished Laputa, Castle in the Sky again. It may not have the strongest plot out of all the Myazaki films, but it does have, in approximate order of appearance:

    • Crazy awesome airships
    • Mysterious crystals
    • Flying pirates
    • Bad guys who wear dark glasses at night, inside and underground
    • Pseudo-Welsh miners
    • A hermit who talks to rocks and has a beard
    • Robots. Lots and lots of robots. One of them looks after birds nests and picks flowers. Others destroy things with their crazy laser vision.
    • Stylised lightning which looks like dragons
    • And at the end: a flying island which looks like a giant jellyfish, floating gracefully into orbit

    The robots look like this:

    My point being that anyone who demands any more than this from a film probably doesn’t deserve it.

  5. For all his smugness and misrepresentation, I’m actually really impressed with Howard Goodall’s conclusion to the Story of Music. In particular the closing segment, where he satisfyingly sums up the history of in about four sentences.

    Most of the series was moderately interesting historical info, but concluding by linking the advent of the Play button to Bach’s notation style is quite profound.

  6. Finished reading The Silent World by Jacques Cousteau.

    It’s a bit strange in that it has no real order and is a collection of semi–related stories about the development and use of the aqualung. Very informative about some of the physiological effects of diving.

    A particularly potent part is Cousteau’s story of the first time bottom trawling had ever been filmed, revealing it to be a hideously inefficient and ineffective method of trawling. No–one had ever realised before, because no one had ever actually seen a net working.